9/19 – I decided to go to Innsbruck, capital of Tyrol, which used to be the site of the winter Olympics. My primary goal was to purchase a ski pin to add to my collections but highlights of this trip were Triumphpforte (Triumphal Arch), modeled after those in Rome; St. Anna's Column (Annasaule), a much photographed attraction; Goldenes Dachl (Golden Roof) Maximilianeum. The Golden Roof is Innsbruck's greatest tourist attraction, certainly its most characteristic landmark. It's a three-story balcony on a house in the Old Town; the late Gothic oriels are capped with 2,657 gold-plated tiles. It was constructed for Emperor Maximilian I to serve as a royal box where he could sit in luxury and enjoy tournaments in the square below. Completed at the dawn of the 16th century, the Golden Roof was built in honor of Maximilian's second marriage, to Bianca Maria Sforza of Milan (Maximilian was a ruler who expanded his territory through marriage, not conquest). Not wishing to alienate the allies gained by his first marriage, to Maria of Burgundy, he had an image of himself between the two women painted on his balcony. He is, however, looking at his new wife, Bianca.

After I got my pin, I headed off to Munich which was just two hours away to attend the infamous Oktoberfest. It's called the "biggest keg party" in the world. Münchners had so much fun in 1810 celebrating the wedding of Prince Ludwig to Princess Therese von Sachsen-Hildburghausen that they've been rowdying it up ever since for 16 full days between September 21 and October 6. The festival's tent city was at the Theresienweise fairground, and the Middle Ages lives on as oxen are roasted on open spits, brass bands oompah-pah you into oblivion and some 750,000 kegs of the brew are tapped. After arriving, I was trying to save money by not buying a map, so I ended up in Marienplatz, with its Glockenspiel and Altes Rathaus (Old Town Hall) which I have seen in my last visit. Finally I made it to the grounds. Food and drinks were everywhere. For me, the pork hock sandwich (I had two) was the best. Alas, never drank a stein since I have to head back to Salzburg that evening. Last time I got drunk in this city I almost lost my way home where if not for someone who guided me back to the hotel.

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