9/23 - The trip to Prague was an experience itself. I did not know that my Eurail pass was not valid thru Slovakia even though I was not stopping in this country. (Czechoslovakia use to be one country until they underwent a "velvet" divorce into Czech Republic and Slovakia on January 1, 1993.) My predicament at that time, was I did not have the correct currency to purchase a ticket from the conductor. The choice was to get down on the next stop and purchase a ticket with my credit card. I saw a fellow American tourist and persuaded if its possible to borrow money and pay her once I get to Prague. Only if worse comes to worst. Before the last stop before the border, I was summoned by the conductor to the dining area and while on the way, he asked how much money I have. I said I had 14 USD. He took the money and was told to go back. He did not issue a ticket and was assure that the next stop is the last stop within its border. In other words, I was involved in a bribery scheme for my passage.

I thought my morning experience was over when I found out from a fellow American traveler that there is a big demonstration going on in lieu of the World Bank/IMF Annual Meeting. Checkpoints, riot police, helicopters were everywhere. There was an advisory by the US State Dept. to avoid this place. Then a group of punks and fascist were chasing another group, police were everywhere and I was stopped several times to show identification. Now I am really getting scared. I have to asked myself if communism is over. Then I found a broker for my accommodation and later found out that she is not officially sanctioned by the Tourism Board. She was berated by other brokers and I found myself in the middle of a turf war. She later assured me that it was okay and to ignore them. So ever trustful, I went for her. The $21 per day accommodation was hard to resist. A widow was renting one of her room in the heart of downtown Prague.

After settling in, I strolled Wenceslas Square (Václavské námìstí) and Old Town Square (Staromìstské námìstí). In November 1989, protest meetings against police brutality were held in Wenceslas Square and led to the Velvet Revolution and the end of communism in Czechoslovakia. In the middle of the square is a monument of St Wenceslas on a horse accompanied with sculptures of four Czech patron saints. Old Town Square is Prague's heart since the 10th century and its main market place until the beginning of the 20th century. The spacious 1.7 hectare Old Town Square has been the scene of great events, both glorious and tragic. There are beautiful pastel-coloured buildings of Romanesque or Gothic origin with fascinating house signs. One of the most prominent site is the Old Town Hall (Staromìstská radnice). Old Town's ancient town hall was established in 1338 after the agreement of King John of Luxemburg to set up a town council. The most popular part of the tower is the Town Hall Clock (Orloj) where crowds congregate to watch the glockenspiel spectacle that occurs at top of the hour. Originally installed in 1410, the clock was rebuilt by the Master Hanuš in 1490. It consists of three parts – the procession of Apostles, the astronomical clock and the calendar. The main attraction is the hourly procession of the 12 Apostles. The Church of Our Lady before Týn (Kostel Panny Marie pøed Týnem) with its magnificent multiple steeples (80m high) dominates the square. Beside it is the House of the Stone Bell. Wandering (getting lost) and browsing numerous shops and galleries offering the finest Bohemian crystal, porcelain, and modern artwork, as well as top fashion boutiques, cafes, and restaurants was the order of the day.

From the old town, it was a short walk to Charles Bridge (Karlùv most). Named after the Emperor Charles IV in 19th century it is Prague's most familiar monument. Designed by Petr Parler, it was completed in 1400 and it connects the Lesser Town with the Old Town. Although it is now pedestrianised, it withstood wheeled traffic for 600 years. The bridge is filled with vendors, artists, musicians and tourists, basically a theme park, a flea market, a country fair, a concert stage and where everything under the sun is on sale. There are thirty statues on the bridge, many of them have been replaced with copies. Originals are kept in the Lapidarium of the National Museum and at Vyšehrad. The magnificent gothic Old Town Bridge Tower was designed by Petr Parler and built at the end of the 14th century.

Prague is an example of exquisite European architecture -- from Romanesque to Gothic to Renaissance, from baroque to Rococo to Art Nouveau to cubist -- all crammed next to one another on twisting narrow streets. City of a hundred spires, of old arched bridges, of a castle on a hill. Described as one of Europe's most beautiful capitals. "Spared damage in World War II ... a museum of classic architecture..." So claim the travel brochure. The Romans called this region Bohemia. A bottle of Evian water cost twice more than a bottle of beer. And everybody smokes!

9/24 - Took a city tour which included the Prague Castle and Hradcany. The Castle to the city is what Acropolis is to Athens, a geographic focal point, a handy orientation for lost tourists, the sunset photograph on a hundred postcards. Hradcany is the castle area. The three key sights on the grounds are the towering St. Vitus Cathedral (Katedrála Sv. Víta), the Old Royal Palace (Starý Královský Palác), and St. George's Basilica (Bazilika Sv. Jiøí) which is now an art gallery. The cathedral's foundation stone was laid in 1344 by Emperor Charles IV. The first architect was Matthias of Arras, after his death Petr Parler took over and completed much of the structure in late-Gothic style. Over the following centuries renaissance and baroque details were added and the job was completed in 1929. Dating from 1135 the Old Royal Palace is one of the oldest parts of the castle. It was the seat of Bohemian princes but from the 13th to the 16th century it was the king's palace. The Basilica is the best preserved Romanesque church in Prague, the facade though, is baroque from the 17th century. The tiny houses on Golden Lane (Zlatá ulièka) is also within the castle walls. Named after the goldsmiths who lived here in the 17th century, Golden Lane is popular with its tiny colourful houses built right into the arches of the Castle walls.

In the afternoon, a side trip to a medieval town that grew fantastically rich from the silver deposits beneath it, Kutná Hora. The town's ancient heart has decayed, which makes it hard to believe that this was once the second most important city in Bohemia. Kutná Hora's main sight are The St. Barbara's Cathedral, a jewel of the late Gothic period, and the Cathedral of Our Lady at Sedlec, which was restored in line with the Baroque taste of the early 18th century and the cemetery at Sedlec with a Gothic ossuary decorated with human bones of some 40,000 humans assembled in bizarre sculptures. The Italian Court, once the Mint of the Czech State and the Royal Residence of the Kings of Bohemia. At the present this building houses a very interesting exhitibiton Kutna Hora minting called "The Royal Mint" and a steady exhbition called "The World of Czech Coins and Medals".

Last evening in town (cutting my stay short due to a big demonstation planned against economic globalization during the World Bank/IMF meeting). I attended a flamenco concert by Paco Peña, the Losada Brothers and Flamenco Dance Company at Lucerna Theatre near Wesceslas Square. Everybody was dressed up and I was just wearing a T-shirt and jeans straight from the afternoon excursion. I looked more like a gypsy but felt like a gypsy king because I can sure afford the $25.00 front 4th row seat for the best flamenco rhythm repertoire!

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