Dec. 19: Arrive Punta Arenas
Punta Arenas is the capital of the province of Magallanes, overlooking the Straits of Magellan and better know as the gateway to Torres del Paine National Park. What are the highlights of Punta Arenas? There is the Maggiorino Borgatello Salesian Museum, which is a collection of artifacts from the area's past. There is the municipal cemetery where wealthy families built huge mausoleums. And the Monumento a Hernando de Magallanes at the city’s main square. Naming the strait (and the penguins) after him was not enough to honor him.

Dec. 20: Drive to Torres del Paine via Punta Natales
After an overnight rest, we drove northwest through the Patagonian rolling plains. The road traveled through a vast, rolling country where the last of the pampas buckles into hilliness as it meets the last of the Andes. It is a land of big vistas and small trees that seems to grow horizontally. Along the way, we visited a rookery of Magellanic penguins in Seno Otway (Otway Sound).

The Magellanic penguin is similar in appearance to a typical penguin but is distinguished by two black bands running along the front surface of its neck. Each year from November through to January, the 150,000 strong army of Magellanic penguins, arrive at the Seno Otway and on Isla Magdalene on the Chilean coast to meet, court, mate, brood and offer their contribution to the population. They live for 30 years and always return to the place where they were born for the mating season.

As we approached the park along Laguna Amarga, we were afforded our first views Towers of Paine. Entering the 600,000-acre park, we passed small groups of foraging ñandus, or rheas (wild ostriches), herds of guanacos, the wild cousin of the llama and some small eagle type birds they called cara cara. We missed the showing of flocks of pink flamingos, the flotilla of black-necked swans, a variety of foxes, upland geese, condors and pumas, the park’s other wildlife. By late afternoon, we arrived in our exclusively reserved Refugio Torres, a cold beer waiting.

Dec. 21: Hike to Torres del Paine (12 miles, 8 hrs round-trip)
The Torres del Paine circuit around the famous craggy mountains that crown this park in Patagonia is one of the world’s classic trekking routes. Breathtaking views together with glaciers, rivers, lakes, forests and abundant wildlife provide the trip with constantly changing sceneries and experiences. This is one of the greatest scenic wonders of the world and one of those places to which all serious mountain-lovers must make a pilgrimage at least once in their lifetime. The full circuit, rated strenuous, covers a distance of approx. 115 kms/72 miles. The hikers will trek the classic shorter version called “W” that takes us to the park's major geological features -- the Torres, the Cuernos, and Glacier Grey, while the runners will whoosh the circuit that will take them around the entire Paine Massif in counterclockwise direction. Andes Adventures is a unique outfit that offers both trekking and running adventures in the Peruvian Andes and Patagonia.

The trek's first long hike took us up to one of the most famous vista points in Torres del Paine (PIE-nay). We hiked along the Rio Ascencio into Valle Ascencio, through beech (ñirre) forests and finally up rough talus and boulders to a viewpoint where you have a clear view of the impressive granite massif of Torres del Paine and the glacial lake at their feet.

We were afforded a rare break in the weather. Clouds laden with Pacific moisture usually hide the tower tops. I felt sorry for all the people who arrived earlier after a 4-hour hike up (or 2 hour run), to see only clouds above the lake. Talk about good timing.

The centerpiece of the Paine massif are three gigantic granite monoliths; Torre de Agostini (9,350’), Torre Central (9,186’) and Torre Monzino (8,530’) rising above a green lagoon. Each tower is the same sort of sheer and impossible skyward leap of granite that one sees in Yosemite. Andean condors, among the world’s largest flying birds, hovering in circles near the snow-streaked peaks added to the prime attraction.

There were times that I had to take shelter between boulders for the frigid winds that slaps at my face. By the time we finished our provisions and photo ops, the winds started to crank up and clouds moved in and covered up the tower tops. That’s when we decided to head down. These brutal winds are signs of things to come on the days ahead of us. These are forces of nature that keep most visitors away and keep this mountain paradise preserved. For more photos, click here: Torre del Paine gallery

That evening we were treated by our Chileno guide Andre of a rare Chilean or Punta Natales delicacy. Stinking, rotten and foul-smelling but exquisitely tasty marinated erizos (sea urchin) roe. Yummy!

Dec. 22: Lago Nordenskjöld (9.5 miles, 6 hrs trip)
Huge-lakes and lagoons dominate the low-lying lands around the Paine Massif. Today’s hike took us along the north shore of Lago Nordenskjöld. The Refugio Cuernos was a welcome sight after 6 hrs of hiking. For more photos, click here: Lago Nordenskjöld gallery

Dec. 23: Los Cuernos del Paine, Valle de Francés, Lago Pehoé(12 miles, 8 hrs trip)
It rained so heavily that early morning that you could hear the sound of the river roaring downstream. I thought today’s hike is going to be cancelled and just stay warm indoor. But this is Patagonia as I imagined it would be - notorious for its unpredictable weather. So rain or shine, we had to gear up west of Lago Scottsberg and follow a trail along rolling foothills arriving at the Campo Italiano. I was hanging back on today's trek, taking my time and enjoying the beautiful scenery. An explosion of colors surrounded me – the turquoise lake, the blue sky, the white mountains, the green grass, scrubs and bushes, and red, yellow, pink, and white wildflowers all over. Rain was on and off. The sun would peak intermittently. And the winds continue to howl in the open meadows. They say that if you stand still in Patagonia “all four seasons will blow past you in a day - sometimes in an hour”. Literally, expect anything!

From the Italian Camp, we took the high road to Valle del Francés (more like the “Valley of the Winds”) to see the Glaciar del Frances. We tried to reach the Mirador (viewpoint) in what should provide the best view of the valley, the wind - often unceasing and sometimes very strong, held up back. We could barely stand, breathe, or keep our eyes open. As we arrived at the highest point of the walk, a spectacular mass of ice and snow splintered with deep canyons and jagged blue pinnacles provided the vista. Loud booms echoed across the valley as avalanches spoiled from the upper reaches of the Glaciar del Frances. As you turn up, you can see the smooth-walled gothic towers and then down on, the pearl-colored waters of Lago Nordenskjöld, It was all savagely beautiful. It was raining steadily and the wind was increasing. We quickly took pictures (just to have some proof of what it feels like to be in a 60+ mile wind) and started our descent back down. The trail was wet, slippery and muddy.

As we continued towards Lago Pehoé and as we got closer to the lake we could see the wind blowing up clouds of water spray on the lake's surface. Views of the enormous horns Cuernos del Paine (7,217’, 7,874’ and 8,530’) on the east and the glaciated Cerro Paine Grande (10,006’) on the west. At the beginning of the day, I am picking my way carefully on those muddy trail or bogs but not anymore. It is a good thing my boots were holding up in keeping my feet wet. It was the longest day of the trek and most arduous. For more photos, click here: Valle de Francés gallery

I finally noticed that day that the sun goes down around 10:30 PM and rises around 3:30 AM. During summer (Dec-Mar) there are 19 hours of daylight! We had to place our towels to shade our windows so we can sleep.

Dec. 24: Lago Grey and Glacier Grey (12.5 miles, 8 hrs trip)
It was sunny with mostly blue skies and the hike to the glacier was inspirational as the pictures advertised. As we reached the cliffs that surround Lago Grey, we met the runners coming down from Lake Dickson. The hike took us through thick forest and open view of the Southern Ice Field and the icebergs slowly making their way down to Lago Grey. We had sightings of the Magellan-woodpecker and austral pigmy-owl. The descent to Refugio Grey was slower and not as fun when your knee hurts.

While we were being served lunch at the Refugio Grey, the asadores are preparing for lambs on vertical spits to be grilled slowly on a fire pit (cordero a la parilla) for tonight Christmas noche buena meal.

About 5 minutes back up the trail was a side path that leads directly in front of the glacier. We enjoyed the close proximity and water level view. The Glacier is incredibly vast and clean showing off a crisp white and deep blue.

I have been hiking for the last 4 days, and my body is taking a toll. The return trip was an uphill climb back to the cliffs of Lago Grey. Water was running low and every muscle in my body are starting to stiffened. No stops, just kept going until I reached Refugio Pehoé.

Christmas Eve 2003 at Refugio Pehoé. After four days on the trail we celebrated the completion of the “W” circuit with a good dinner and wine brought by Andre’s beau. This was a great group to travel with – all fifteen (including our guides - Abelardo and Andre) were a bunch of fun and adventure loving people. I am always amazed how you start a trip as strangers and days later, it's as if you have known these people all your life. Friendships are established. For more photos, click here: Lago Grey gallery

Dec. 25: El Calafate
We boarded a catamaran and set out for the 45 minute crossing, enjoying the views of the Cuernos del Paine for the last time. We met up with the runners at Refugio Pudeto. We crossed the Argentine border and arrived in the village of El Calafate on the shore of Lago Argentino.